Mount Everest Expedition

2004 Everest Summit Report by Felix Berg

Writen at ABC (6300m) after summiting Mount Everest for EverestNews.

May 29th at 2:15am (Chinese time) Arnold Coster (Netherlands), the local Tibetan climbers Awang Norbu, Purbu Tsering, Tashi Namgal, our Sherpas Tenjen and Lakpah and I started from the high camp (8300m) towards the summit. The first hours were quite windy and cold. Climbing the "Yellow Band" to the ridge took some time and there was an certain amount of new snow. Up to to the First Step (30m) I tracked then the Tibetan climbers took over. Shortly afterwards I reached the Second Step (a 20m step with a 7m ladder), from there we four climbed together. Reaching the Third Step we had a beautiful sunrise and it got warmer so we could enjoy the fascinating panorama. After a tiresome snowfield, a short rock passage and the ridge we stood at the summit of Mt. Everest at 7:50am. The view to Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and the Tibetan Plateau was fantastic. We stayed for about 45 min eating and drinking a little bit, calling basecamp (still asleep) and taking some photos. Descending we met Arnold and our two Sherpas who reached the summit around 9:00am.The following steep terrain forced us again to be really careful. After 3 hours around 11:00am Awang and I reached our tent. After several hours of rest I packed my stuff and helped the Tibetans and the Sherpas to dismantle the camp before continuing our descend. Along the abandoned camps at 7900m and 7600m looking more or less like "ghost-towns" I reached the North Col where our Sherpa Jangbu waited for me with hot tea and then I went on to the ABC (6400) which I reached around 5:00pm. Till late into the night all climbers of our group reached ABC.

Mount Everest Expedition

2004 Everest Summit Report by Felix Berg

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